Amalfi Coast

April 2017

Including Sorrento, Naples, Pompeii and Positano

If I have not said this about everywhere I have been already, this is one of my favourite coast’s and places to travel in the world. The only mistake I made when visiting here was not staying for long enough! There is so much to see and do, that if you want to include everything, you could easily spend 2-weeks, staying in multiple places as you go. I however stayed at one base (in Sorrento) and travelled from here for just the 4-days.

Path of the Gods

We booked the trip fairly last minute so planned exactly what we were doing when we arrived, as we didn’t know a lot about the area. It is easy to do this, however if you are more organised and want to plan before hand this is the itinerary we followed for a 3 night 4 day trip:

  • Arrive into Naples
  • Train to Sorrento
  • Day 1 – Sorrento
  • Day 2 – Pompeii
  • Day 3 – Path Of The Gods – Amalfi, Positano
  • Day 4 – Mount Vesuvius AM
  • Train back to Naples

We travelled in early April and were lucky with the weather – some days it was surprisingly hot whilst others the wind picked up and got chilly and cloudy. However this was a good time to come in terms of other tourists – being off peak season it was really quiet. I can’t imagine it would have been quite the same peak season, jam-packed with tourists. So bare this in mind.

Arrival
Upon arrival we didn’t have any transport booked to get from Naples Airport to Sorrento town – this isn’t something I usually pre-arrange. You can almost always rely on public transport (or taxi as the last option). We jumped on a bus which took us to the train station in Naples, and then straight on to a train that took us the whole rest of the way. I must say, for luxurious travellers I would not recommend the train, however for those that want to see the ins and outs of a new country/culture then it is definitely the best way to go! It could do with some modernisation, but still did the job efficiently.

The complete journey took 1.5 hours. The route is scenic and interesting as you stop off at different places along the way. You are often accompanied by live musical bands that hop on and off at each stop too. Our journey was also made slightly longer by a loose dog on the tracks.. the key here is to go with the flow and expect nothing. That way you cannot be disappointed and end up with a journey that tells a better story than a boring (and expensive) taxi ride!

Sorrento
In Sorrento we stayed in Hotel Eden. Overall the hotel was pleasant (minus the sock like pillows) and provided everything we could have needed. The location specifically was excellent. We checked into our hotel late afternoon before heading out and exploring what was around us before we lost the light for the day.

First impressions – WOW. What a cute little place! All along the Amalfi Coast you are essentially on a cliff, so the coastal views are amazing – especially that of Mount Vesuvius when the weather approves. The hotels, cafe’s and restaurants along the front provide some of the most amazing views I have ever seen. Beneath this into the town you are provided with endless alley ways of orange and lemon groves amongst the architecture. In the middle of the coastal town is an amazing historic valley full of ruins (Vallone dei Mulini) – definitely a must see! The main square is called Piazza Tasso and is lined with amazing places to eat and shop. It is off the square where the endless alleys begin providing hours of endless exploring. Base yourselves around this square and your location will be spot on.

Book Hotel Eden here

Pompeii Ruins

Pompeii
We decided a visit to the ancient ruins of Pompeii was a must when in this part of the country – it was definitely an experience. We jumped back on the train to get to Pompeii with no problems at all – purchasing tickets straight from the station itself. Although devastating, it was amazing to see the town that once was. Definitely worth a visit, especially for those with a historical interest. We spent a couple of hours amongst the ruins however much longer could have been spent for sure – give yourself half a day at least, if not a full day to explore the Pompeii ruins. It costs around £10 to enter, and you can choose whether to have an audio guide or explore freely. There are also a lot of tour options you can opt for if preferred.

Path of the Gods
Now not only was this the one day that made this whole trip so amazing and made me fall in love with the place, but the Path of the Gods is one of my favourite things I have EVER done. Essentially it is an 8km trek from Bomerano to Positano. You can actually pick up the trek in a couple of places if you don’t want to walk the full distance, so research which starting area is best for you first.

We caught the bus to the starting point, and again back from Positano to Sorrento at the end. Even the bus itself was amazing – the views out of the window all along the winding coastal roads were to die for! Minus getting worryingly close to the edges at some point – they weren’t literally worth DYING for! One of the things that made both me and my mum laugh on this trip was their use of the car horn. As you can imagine there are a million and one bends in a coastal road.. and best believe they beep at every single one to warn oncoming traffic of their whereabouts.

You ideally want to spare a whole day for this trek. We made a lot of stops along the way at the various bench/resting points. The trek itself was challenging (especially at the end – you have to descent literally thousands of steps before reaching the end point) but definitely do-able for all fitness levels. Most of all, remember to just stop and take in the panoramic views, it’s easy to forget where you are when you’re focussing on a hike but this one is definitely worth that extra rest stop to take it all in.

The trek can take anywhere from 3-5 hours so ensure plenty of water and a couple of snacks to keep you going are on hand before setting off – one thing you won’t find along the way is a shop or chance to replenish.

Mount Vesuvius – The trek up

Mount Vesuvius (Vesuvio in Italian)
Now our trip up Mount Vesuvius was definitely one to remember. The day we decided to head up the volcano was one of the colder days – however at the base it was fine. We did not anticipate just how much the temperature was going to drop at the top! WOW did we get a shock! I have never felt pain of the cold in my head and ears quite like it… so be prepared for this. That aside, it was definitely worth it. We were able to purchase our tickets on the gate, costing around £10pp. You can take the 4km walk up alone, or opt for a guided tour (for extra ££). Being able to peer into an active volcano was amazing. And it was huge! I still can’t believe quite how big it was at the top – not what I had expected at all. The walk itself was again challenging, but again do-able for all fitness levels. The elevation gain is 175m and takes approx. 2 hours.

Food & Drink

Overall, food and drink prices here are what you’d expect from Italy. Prices are not crazy expensive but they’re also not cheap. You can expect to pay around 5-7 Euros for a beer, and anything from about 10 Euros for a nice meal. You get what you pay for however, some of the food here is amazing! Make sure to check out some of the gelato cafes along the alley ways in Sorrento and Positano. There are definitely lots of hidden gems worth exploring, so keep your eyes peeled at all times.

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